anthropocene //
a concept of a new geological era, proposed in 2000 by the Nobel prize- winning atmospheric scientist Paul J. Crutzen to mark an epoch that corresponds with significant human impact on the environment. Over the last twenty years, the term has gained considerable traction in the discussions on human-induced climate change. However, the Anthropocene debate has also attracted criticism from those who argue that the concept homogenizes the human race by blaming all for the damage caused by the behavior and lifestyles of a relative minority. Critics also point out that the current environmental crisis has cultural, economic and political roots. The estimations of the beginning of the Anthropocene era range from the 15th-century European expansion to the escalating speed, scale and degree of changes since the mid-20th century. In both cases, the human impact on the environment is a question of choice rather than an inevitable result of human “nature”.1
artisan //
a concept of a new geological era, proposed in 2000 by the Nobel prize- winning atmospheric scientist Paul J. Crutzen to mark an epoch that corresponds with significant human impact on the environment. Over the last twenty years, the term has gained considerable traction in the discussions on human-induced climate change. However, the Anthropocene debate has also attracted criticism from those who argue that the concept homogenizes the human race by blaming all for the damage caused by the behavior and lifestyles of a relative minority. Critics also point out that the current environmental crisis has cultural, economic and political roots. The estimations of the beginning of the Anthropocene era range from the 15th-century European expansion to the escalating speed, scale and degree of changes since the mid-20th century. In both cases, the human impact on the environment is a question of choice rather than an inevitable result of human “nature”.1
artisan //
a skilled maker who makes products by hand with an exceptional dexterity and knowledge. Artisanal labor has always been inseparable from the culture of clothing and it still plays a key role in the making of garments. Despite the high level of skill required, artisanal labor is notoriously exploited because the long hours needed for hand production make it impossible for artisanal products to compete on price point with mass-manufactured alternatives. Globalization has further devalued artisanal labor by increasing global competition and enabling the art and craft dealers and fashion brands from advanced economies to profit from low labor costs and insufficient labor rights legislation in developing countries with rich artisan traditions.1
ayni //
the concept of reciprocity or mutualism among people of the Andean mountain communities. The law of ayni states that everything in the world is connected. A more broad definition of ayni would be the exchange of energy between humans, nature, and the universe.2
the concept of reciprocity or mutualism among people of the Andean mountain communities. The law of ayni states that everything in the world is connected. A more broad definition of ayni would be the exchange of energy between humans, nature, and the universe.2
biodiversity //
is all the living beings—the rich variety of (humans,) animals, plants, fungi, and microorganisms that make up our world. Each (most) of these species and organisms work together in ecosystems, like an intricate web, to maintain balance and support life.
boro //
derived from the Japanese boroboro, meaning something tattered or repaired, boro is the practice of reworking and repairing textiles (often clothes or bedding) through piecing, patching and stitching, in order to extend their use.
care //
attentiveness and consideration for people, things, and the environment. To care means to take responsibility for the cause and effect of our actions, recognizing the interconnectedness of the world and our role as humans within it. The importance of care in relation to clothing was emphasized by the designer and educator Victor Papanek, who argued that normalizing the disposability of the things we use has damaging consequences for our personal relationships. “Throwing away furniture, transportation vehicles, clothing, and appliances may soon lead us to feel that marriages (and other personal relationships) are throwaway items as well, and that on a global scale, countries and, indeed, entire subcontinents are disposable like Kleenex”3.
circularity //
is a way of thinking and creating that takes a products’ end-of-life into account. The aim in this is to retain the quality of the material endlessly, in order to return the product into the supply chain to be used as the raw material to make another, new version.
1.circular design
is a strategy that aims to use the planet’s finite resources in a more sustainable way. In circular design anything material is considered to be part of a loop or a system, where recovery or future use is anticipated and enabled. The aim is to keep materials in circulation in perpetuity.
2.circular resources
are designed with recovery in mind, or extracted from currently linear waste streams to retain their value in use.
3.circular material flows
anything which escapes an industrial cycle should aim not only to do no harm but to be an active nutrient in the system as a whole.
4.circular systems
the ultimate aim is to eradicate waste altogether. When applied to textiles, a circular system achieves a more sustainable future for one of the world’s most impactful industries.
collaboration //
working together toward a common goal
collective bargaining //
a process that allows workers (usually represented by trade unions) and employers to negotiate agreements on working conditions, wages, benefits, and other aspects of fair employment. Collective bargaining is underpinned by the fundamental human right to freedom of peaceful assembly and, according to the International Labour Organization, countries with established collective bargaining procedures have more equal wages, fewer protracted disputes, and fairer employment relationships.
consumption //
from consume; to use up, to spend wastefully, to do away with. In economics - the utilization of (raw) materials to satisfy needs or in manufacturing
cotton //
a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants. These plants are native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world and are very water intensive, requiring on average 8,000–10,000 liters of water for one kilogram of cotton.
craft of use //
is the ability to draw a deep satisfaction from resourceful ways of wearing, repairing, re-making and looking after old and familiar clothes. The concept of craft of use resulted from an international research project led by Professor Kate Fletcher, collecting people’s stories of their favorite clothes across six countries and three continents. Fletcher argues that while clothes are sold as products, they are lived as a process. Craft of use highlights that the current fashion system lacks a long-term perspective and ignores the connection between the making and use of clothing. Understanding how clothes are worn, laundered, and cared for during their lifetime is key for a more sustainable future. Craft of use offers an extended understanding of clothing that challenges the market-driven overconsumption, showing that satisfaction and pleasure can also come from lasting relationships with the clothes we already have.1
cultural appreciation //
(vs. cultural appropriation)
appreciation involves a desire for knowledge and deeper understanding of a culture. It also provides an opportunity to share ideas and cultural awareness. Appropriation, on the other hand, happens when members of one culture adopt specific aspects of a different culture - usually in an exploitative, disrespectful, or stereotypical way - without consent and for their own profit. This is a common occurence in the fashion industry and has led to numerous lawsuits.
see also; Urban Outfitters in Court Over Using Navajo Culture for Profit
decolonization //
refers to the withdrawal of imperial powers from colonies and the restoration of political and economic independence to the colonized regions. However, decolonization does not stop with reclaiming political and economic control. It is a complex and gradual process, that is never quite finished because the legacy of the colonial rule especially with regards to culture, continues long after the emancipation took place.
degrowth //
means primarily the abolition of economic growth as a social objective. This implies a new direction for society, one in which societies will use fewer natural resources and will organize and live differently from today. Ecological economists define degrowth as an equitable downscaling of production and consumption that will reduce societies’ throughput of energy and raw materials.4
see also; Degrowth, A Radical Call for Abundance by Jason Hickel
design for disassembly //
or take-apart technology, is a design process that allows for the easy recovery of products, parts and materials when an object is disassembled or repaired. Garments are frequently made with a mixture of fibers that are impossible to seperate while still retaining any of the material’s quality.
see also; Design Lessons in Disassembly
distribution //
the way in which something is shared out among a group or spread over an area. Wealth distribution is an indicator of economic inequality.
downcycling //
to recycle something in such a way that the resulting product is of a lower value than the original item.
end of life //
when a product has reached the end of its use or is no longer able to perform its intended function.
see also - waste
ethical;
trade, sourcing, production, etc //
pertaining to or dealing with morals or the principles of morality; pertaining to right and wrong in conduct.
egalitarian //
relating to or believing in the principle that all people are equal and deserve equal rights and opportunities.
enclosure //
forcibly removing peasants from their land and fencing off the commons for private use. This method was first used in western Europe in the 1500s-1800s by feudal lords to re-establish control over the people by cutting them entirely off from land and resources and pushing them toward cities to take low-wage factory jobs that fueled then industrialisation and is now is locking people into modern capitalist society.
see also; The Economic Waters We Swim In (Weaving Voices podcast)
environmental justice //
the fair treatment and meaningful involvement of all people regardless of race, color, national origin, or income with respect to the development, implementation and enforcement of environmental laws, regulations and policies.5
equality //
is ensuring that every individual has an equal opportunity to make the most of their lives and talents. It is also the belief that no one should have poorer life chances because of the way they were born, where they come from, what they believe, or whether they have a disability.
equity //
the concept of equity extends the above values of equality by also considering fairness and equality in terms of outcomes. This means recognizing that access to opportunities and the level of support people need may vary relative to individual circumstances. The concept of equity respects and acts on the existence of such variations, and therefore equitable treatment guarantees opportunities and support for people according to their individual needs.1
fast fashion //
is a design, manufacturing, and marketing method focused on rapidly producing high volumes of clothing. Fast fashion garment production leverages trend replication and low-quality materials (like synthetic fabrics) in order to bring inexpensive styles to the end consumer.6
fibershed //
a geographical landscape that defines and gives boundaries to a natural textile resource base. Awareness of this bioregional designation engenders appreciation, connectivity, and sensitivity for the life-giving resources within our homelands.7
globalization //
the economic, cultural, and political interconnect-edness of the world and the growing interactions between people, businesses, and political institutions globally.
greenwashing //
an unsubstantiated claim to deceive consumers into believing that a company's products are environmentally friendly or have a greater positive environmental impact than they actually do.
hemp fiber //
is a strong bast natural fiber, derived from the hemp plant under the species of Cannabis. Hemp is one of the fastest growing plants and was one of the first plants to be spun into usable fiber 50,000 years ago.8
higg index //
a suite of tools for the standardized measurement of value chain sustainability for the garment industry, created by corporate industry leaders themselves. The index was formed in 2011 by H&M, Walmart, Nike, Levi’s, and Patagonia - and others - and maintained by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). The index came under attack in 2022 for falsely claiming the sustainability of synthetic fibers, among other inconsistencies.9 see also; Mulberry Trees, Silk Moths & Modern Sustainability Measurements (Weaving Voices podcast)
interbeing //
a state of connectedness and interdependence of all phenomena. A being that is interconnected with others.
see also; The Insight of Interbring by Thich Nhat Han
interdependance //
the mutual dependence of all humans and natural systems. Interdependence involves a balance of self and others within the relationship, recognizing the need to all be in coordination with eachother.
indigenous rights //
human, civil, and legal rights that respond to the specific conditions of indigenous peoples (also known as tribal peoples, native peoples, aboriginal peoples or First Nations), who have historically suffered from unjust practices including genocide, enslavement, forced relocation, physical attacks, exploitation, eviction, discrimination, marginalization, and forced cultural and social assimilation.
jugaad //
the Hindi word jugaad refers to ingenious, frugal solutions that are driven by flexibility and improvisation even in the most challenging circumstances. Similar to the English word resourcefullness. Jugaad innovators are creative individuals who overcome issues by simple yet effective problem solving that meets local needs at nominal cost. The concept of jugaad can be understood as an agile creative mindset applied across personal and professional life to cope with adversity and limitations, especially in times of crisis.
see also; Jugaad: A study in Indian ingenuity and improvisation
just transition //
is a movement that answers the question: How can we move from this unjust economy to one that serves all people equitably and heals the planet? How can we build and restore cultures that celebrate and nurture all people, and heal the racial injustice that has caused countless tragedies? How can we re- center the original meaning of “economy,” which is “the management of the home”?10
see also; A Strategic Framework for a Just Transition
landfill //
is a site for the disposal of waste materials. The creation of landfills typically means destroying natural habitats for wildlife and the average landfill size is 600 acres. Along with methane, landfills also produce carbon dioxide and water vapor, and trace amounts of oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, and non methane organic compounds.11
living wage //
a theoretical minimum income level that allows individuals or families to afford adequate shelter, food, and other necessities.
see also; Poverty Wages - Clean Clothes Campaign
localism //
a range of political philosophies which prioritize the local. Localism can also refer to a systematic approach to organizing so that local autonomy is retained rather than following the usual pattern of power becoming centralized over time.12
mending //
the process of repairing a damaged garment or material item
microplastics //
are tiny plastic particles that result from commercial product development and the breakdown of larger plastics. Microplastics are a pollutant, and are harmful to the environment and animal health.
migration //
movement of people to a new area or country in order to find work or better living conditions.
modern slavery //
sometimes called contemporary slavery, modern slavery refers to a situation where a person is exploited and completely controlled by another person or organization, without the ability to leave.
mordant //
is a substance used to set dye on fabric. Mordants include tannic acid, oxalic acid, alum, chrome alum, sodium chloride, and certain salts of aluminium, chromium, copper, iron, iodine, potassium, sodium, tungsten, and tin. Alum is a popular mordant in natural dyeing and is used at the ration of 10% the dry weight of the fabric to be dyed.
mono materials //
materials that are made from a single fiber, as oposed to blended materials which contain mutliple fibers. Mono materials are easier to recycle and can be better reintroduced into the material stream.
natural fibers //
are fibers that are produced by geological processes, or from the bodies of plants or animals. Examples include cotton, silk, wool, leather, and hemp.
off-cuts //
small pieces of fabric that are leftover in the cutting process of pattern pieces. On average, 15% of the fabric is wasted in this part of the production. Methods like zero-waste patternmaking seek to solve this issue.
overconsumtion //
a mode of excessive consumption, that outpaces both the real needs of people and the capacity of the global ecosystems to regenerate.
paradigm shift //
a fundamental change in approach or underlying assumptions
polyester //
a synthetic fiber derived from fossil fuels
post/pre-consumer waste //
pre-consumer waste is generated in the production process before the product reaches the store and post-consumer waste is gathered from consumer in waste recepticals or on the roadside.
poverty //
often defined in absolute and relative terms. Absolute poverty means the inability to provide for basic needs such as food, shelter, and clothing. Relative poverty refers to a person’s poor economic status in relation to the overall standards of the society they live in.
Rana Plaza //
Rana Plaza was an eight-story commercial block located just outside Dhaka, Bangladesh, containing five clothing factories amongst other shops. On 24th April, 2013 the building collapsed due to a structural failure, killing 1,134 people and leaving many more with life-long debilitating injuries. The majority of the casualties were low-paid garment workers who made clothes for global high street brands.13
rayon //
aka viscose
is a semi-synthetic fiber, made from natural sources of regenerated cellulose, such as wood and related agricultural products. Rayon was developed in the late 1800s and was the first artifical textile fiber. As the motive was to imitate silk, it was first known as ‘artificial silk’. The production process - still to this day - involves toxic chemicals and a large percentage of rayon workers suffer severe brain and heart damage.
see also; The health burden of viscose rayon
reciprocity //
responding to kind action with kind actions. Mutuality, symbiosis.see also; Indigenizing philanthropy to restore reciprocity and relational gifting
recycling //
to convert (waste) into reusable material or to return (material) to a previous stage in a cyclic process. When garments are commercially recycled they are often shredded and used as insulation. It is possible to compost natural fibers if all the metal and plastic components are removed.
regeneration //
renewal, revival, restoration.
a principle that calls for products or services to contribute to systems that renew or replenish themselves.
repurpose //
adapt something to be used in a different way/for a different purpose.
reshoring //
reversing the practice of offshore manufacture by re-
introducing and supporting local manufacturing facilities and skills.
resilience //
the capacity of individuals, societies, cultures, economies, and ecosystems to reorganize and recover from change and disruption.
resourcefullness // see jugaad
repair // see mending
respect //
an attitude that shows careful consideration to self, others, and the environment, especially with regards to the cause and effect of one’s own actions.
rewilding //
seeks to reinstate natural processes and, where appropriate, missing species – allowing them to shape the landscape and the habitats within.
see also; Defining Rewilding
sandblasting //
also known as abrasive blasting, is the process of literally blasting sand at a material or often a finished garment to make it look distressed. This sand contains silica and has led to countless cases of silicosis in factory workers who are not working with adequate protection.
see also; Fashion Victims; a report on sandblasting
scarcity //
as an economic concept "refers to the basic fact of life that there exists only a finite amount of human and nonhuman resources which the best technical knowledge is capable of using to produce only limited maximum amounts of each economic good."9
silk //
a natural protein fiber that is created from a long filament that is extracted by the silk worm, typically ones living on mulberry trees. Silk is the strongest natural fiber and originates from ancient China as far back as 6500 BC.14
social cost //
costs felt by a social group that were incurred as a result of production or other busines activities. This includes the impact of such activities on reducing the well-being of individuals and communities.
social justice //
is justice in terms of the distribution of wealth, opportunities, and privileges within a society.
supply chain //
all the processes, organizations and individuals involved in turning raw materials into finished products and delivering them to customers.
sustainability //
the ability to maintain or support a process continuously over time. The term has been used so frequently and broadly over the past years that is has lost a lot of meaning.
see also; The Myth of Sustainable Fashion
synthetic fibers //
are fibers made by humans through chemical synthesis (typically fueled by petroleum), as opposed to natural fibers that are directly derived from living organisms, such as plants (like cotton) or fur from animals.
systems change //
a systems approach shifts the focus from individual parts to how the parts are organised, recognising that interactions of the parts are not static and constant but dynamic and fluid. Systemic change is where relationships between different aspects of the system have changed towards new outcomes and goals.
systems thinking //
an approach to problem-solving that views ‘problems’ as part of a wider, dynamic system. It is the process of understanding how things influence one another as part of a whole.
(Peter Senge)
traceability //
the possibility to trace the journey and origins of products from raw material to finished product across the entire value chain. Traceability is closely interconnected with the requirement for transparency, to improve trust in the fashion industry and its social and environmental practices.
trade union //
an organized association of workers in a trade, group of trades, or profession, formed to protect and further their rights and interests; a labor union.Typical activities of trade unions include providing assistance and services to their members, collectively bargaining for better pay and conditions for all workers, working to improve the quality of public services, political campaigning and industrial action.
traditional knowledge //
knowledge systems embedded in the cultural traditions of regional, indigenous, or local communities
see also; Protecting, Promoting, and Revitalizing Traditional Knowledge
transparency //
a requirement for companies to take full responsibility for
their entire supply chains and act on their accountability for the social and environmental practices at all stages of manufacturing of their products.
upcycling //
to remake (discarded objects or material) in such a way as to create a product of higher quality or value than the original.
urbanization //
the population shift from rural to urban areas, the corresponding decrease in the proportion of people living in rural areas, and the ways in which societies adapt to this change.
value chain //
refers to the full lifecycle of a product or process, including material sourcing, production, consumption and disposal/recycling processes.16
virgin materials //
as unused raw material that has never been subjected to any processing other than for its production. Virgin materials are sourced directly from nature in their raw form.
viscose // see rayon
waste //
discarded material or objects, deemed worthless, defective, or no longer of no use. Each year, the average American throws away 4.9 pounds per day or 1788.5 pounds per year.17 Of this, 70 pounds are clothing and other textiles.
“who made my clothes” //
a movement started by the founders of Fashion Revolution after the Rana Plaza disaster that seeks to shed light on the deadly lack of transparency in global supply chains. The campaign asks consumers the simple question of “who made your clothes?” and highlights the disconnect between the clothes we wear and the places and people that made them.
see also; Who Made My Clothes?
wool //
a fibre obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids. Wool is up of a matrix of keratin fibers and covered with minute scales and is usually curly or wavy.
zero waste design //
aims to eliminate waste at the design stage. This can be in the form of zero waste patternmkaing or knit garments that are made in one piece.
see also; Zero Waste Design
zero-hour contract //
A zero-hour contract is an arrangement between a worker and an employer where the employer has no obligation to guarantee a minimum of working hours and the worker is not obliged to accept the working hours offered. While zero-hour contracts may be suitable in some cases, such as to cover seasonal peaks and to enable students to work over vacation periods, they are generally unsuitable to run a core business, especially in cases where the patterns of work can be reasonably predicted, as for example shop opening hours. The incidences of low-paid zero-hour contracts have been reported across the fashion supply chain, especially in retail. In most cases, rather than offering workers the advantage of flexibility, zero-hour contracts can become a form of modern slavery, where employees work for low pay, with insecure and often last-minute working patterns, which makes them vulnerable to exploitation.1
is all the living beings—the rich variety of (humans,) animals, plants, fungi, and microorganisms that make up our world. Each (most) of these species and organisms work together in ecosystems, like an intricate web, to maintain balance and support life.
boro //
derived from the Japanese boroboro, meaning something tattered or repaired, boro is the practice of reworking and repairing textiles (often clothes or bedding) through piecing, patching and stitching, in order to extend their use.
care //
attentiveness and consideration for people, things, and the environment. To care means to take responsibility for the cause and effect of our actions, recognizing the interconnectedness of the world and our role as humans within it. The importance of care in relation to clothing was emphasized by the designer and educator Victor Papanek, who argued that normalizing the disposability of the things we use has damaging consequences for our personal relationships. “Throwing away furniture, transportation vehicles, clothing, and appliances may soon lead us to feel that marriages (and other personal relationships) are throwaway items as well, and that on a global scale, countries and, indeed, entire subcontinents are disposable like Kleenex”3.
circularity //
is a way of thinking and creating that takes a products’ end-of-life into account. The aim in this is to retain the quality of the material endlessly, in order to return the product into the supply chain to be used as the raw material to make another, new version.
1.circular design
is a strategy that aims to use the planet’s finite resources in a more sustainable way. In circular design anything material is considered to be part of a loop or a system, where recovery or future use is anticipated and enabled. The aim is to keep materials in circulation in perpetuity.
2.circular resources
are designed with recovery in mind, or extracted from currently linear waste streams to retain their value in use.
3.circular material flows
anything which escapes an industrial cycle should aim not only to do no harm but to be an active nutrient in the system as a whole.
4.circular systems
the ultimate aim is to eradicate waste altogether. When applied to textiles, a circular system achieves a more sustainable future for one of the world’s most impactful industries.
collaboration //
working together toward a common goal
collective bargaining //
a process that allows workers (usually represented by trade unions) and employers to negotiate agreements on working conditions, wages, benefits, and other aspects of fair employment. Collective bargaining is underpinned by the fundamental human right to freedom of peaceful assembly and, according to the International Labour Organization, countries with established collective bargaining procedures have more equal wages, fewer protracted disputes, and fairer employment relationships.
consumption //
from consume; to use up, to spend wastefully, to do away with. In economics - the utilization of (raw) materials to satisfy needs or in manufacturing
cotton //
a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants. These plants are native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world and are very water intensive, requiring on average 8,000–10,000 liters of water for one kilogram of cotton.
craft of use //
is the ability to draw a deep satisfaction from resourceful ways of wearing, repairing, re-making and looking after old and familiar clothes. The concept of craft of use resulted from an international research project led by Professor Kate Fletcher, collecting people’s stories of their favorite clothes across six countries and three continents. Fletcher argues that while clothes are sold as products, they are lived as a process. Craft of use highlights that the current fashion system lacks a long-term perspective and ignores the connection between the making and use of clothing. Understanding how clothes are worn, laundered, and cared for during their lifetime is key for a more sustainable future. Craft of use offers an extended understanding of clothing that challenges the market-driven overconsumption, showing that satisfaction and pleasure can also come from lasting relationships with the clothes we already have.1
cultural appreciation //
(vs. cultural appropriation)
appreciation involves a desire for knowledge and deeper understanding of a culture. It also provides an opportunity to share ideas and cultural awareness. Appropriation, on the other hand, happens when members of one culture adopt specific aspects of a different culture - usually in an exploitative, disrespectful, or stereotypical way - without consent and for their own profit. This is a common occurence in the fashion industry and has led to numerous lawsuits.
see also; Urban Outfitters in Court Over Using Navajo Culture for Profit
decolonization //
refers to the withdrawal of imperial powers from colonies and the restoration of political and economic independence to the colonized regions. However, decolonization does not stop with reclaiming political and economic control. It is a complex and gradual process, that is never quite finished because the legacy of the colonial rule especially with regards to culture, continues long after the emancipation took place.
degrowth //
means primarily the abolition of economic growth as a social objective. This implies a new direction for society, one in which societies will use fewer natural resources and will organize and live differently from today. Ecological economists define degrowth as an equitable downscaling of production and consumption that will reduce societies’ throughput of energy and raw materials.4
see also; Degrowth, A Radical Call for Abundance by Jason Hickel
design for disassembly //
or take-apart technology, is a design process that allows for the easy recovery of products, parts and materials when an object is disassembled or repaired. Garments are frequently made with a mixture of fibers that are impossible to seperate while still retaining any of the material’s quality.
see also; Design Lessons in Disassembly
distribution //
the way in which something is shared out among a group or spread over an area. Wealth distribution is an indicator of economic inequality.
downcycling //
to recycle something in such a way that the resulting product is of a lower value than the original item.
end of life //
when a product has reached the end of its use or is no longer able to perform its intended function.
see also - waste
ethical;
trade, sourcing, production, etc //
pertaining to or dealing with morals or the principles of morality; pertaining to right and wrong in conduct.
egalitarian //
relating to or believing in the principle that all people are equal and deserve equal rights and opportunities.
enclosure //
forcibly removing peasants from their land and fencing off the commons for private use. This method was first used in western Europe in the 1500s-1800s by feudal lords to re-establish control over the people by cutting them entirely off from land and resources and pushing them toward cities to take low-wage factory jobs that fueled then industrialisation and is now is locking people into modern capitalist society.
see also; The Economic Waters We Swim In (Weaving Voices podcast)
environmental justice //
the fair treatment and meaningful involvement of all people regardless of race, color, national origin, or income with respect to the development, implementation and enforcement of environmental laws, regulations and policies.5
equality //
is ensuring that every individual has an equal opportunity to make the most of their lives and talents. It is also the belief that no one should have poorer life chances because of the way they were born, where they come from, what they believe, or whether they have a disability.
equity //
the concept of equity extends the above values of equality by also considering fairness and equality in terms of outcomes. This means recognizing that access to opportunities and the level of support people need may vary relative to individual circumstances. The concept of equity respects and acts on the existence of such variations, and therefore equitable treatment guarantees opportunities and support for people according to their individual needs.1
fast fashion //
is a design, manufacturing, and marketing method focused on rapidly producing high volumes of clothing. Fast fashion garment production leverages trend replication and low-quality materials (like synthetic fabrics) in order to bring inexpensive styles to the end consumer.6
fibershed //
a geographical landscape that defines and gives boundaries to a natural textile resource base. Awareness of this bioregional designation engenders appreciation, connectivity, and sensitivity for the life-giving resources within our homelands.7
globalization //
the economic, cultural, and political interconnect-edness of the world and the growing interactions between people, businesses, and political institutions globally.
greenwashing //
an unsubstantiated claim to deceive consumers into believing that a company's products are environmentally friendly or have a greater positive environmental impact than they actually do.
hemp fiber //
is a strong bast natural fiber, derived from the hemp plant under the species of Cannabis. Hemp is one of the fastest growing plants and was one of the first plants to be spun into usable fiber 50,000 years ago.8
higg index //
a suite of tools for the standardized measurement of value chain sustainability for the garment industry, created by corporate industry leaders themselves. The index was formed in 2011 by H&M, Walmart, Nike, Levi’s, and Patagonia - and others - and maintained by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). The index came under attack in 2022 for falsely claiming the sustainability of synthetic fibers, among other inconsistencies.9 see also; Mulberry Trees, Silk Moths & Modern Sustainability Measurements (Weaving Voices podcast)
interbeing //
a state of connectedness and interdependence of all phenomena. A being that is interconnected with others.
see also; The Insight of Interbring by Thich Nhat Han
interdependance //
the mutual dependence of all humans and natural systems. Interdependence involves a balance of self and others within the relationship, recognizing the need to all be in coordination with eachother.
indigenous rights //
human, civil, and legal rights that respond to the specific conditions of indigenous peoples (also known as tribal peoples, native peoples, aboriginal peoples or First Nations), who have historically suffered from unjust practices including genocide, enslavement, forced relocation, physical attacks, exploitation, eviction, discrimination, marginalization, and forced cultural and social assimilation.
jugaad //
the Hindi word jugaad refers to ingenious, frugal solutions that are driven by flexibility and improvisation even in the most challenging circumstances. Similar to the English word resourcefullness. Jugaad innovators are creative individuals who overcome issues by simple yet effective problem solving that meets local needs at nominal cost. The concept of jugaad can be understood as an agile creative mindset applied across personal and professional life to cope with adversity and limitations, especially in times of crisis.
see also; Jugaad: A study in Indian ingenuity and improvisation
just transition //
is a movement that answers the question: How can we move from this unjust economy to one that serves all people equitably and heals the planet? How can we build and restore cultures that celebrate and nurture all people, and heal the racial injustice that has caused countless tragedies? How can we re- center the original meaning of “economy,” which is “the management of the home”?10
see also; A Strategic Framework for a Just Transition
landfill //
is a site for the disposal of waste materials. The creation of landfills typically means destroying natural habitats for wildlife and the average landfill size is 600 acres. Along with methane, landfills also produce carbon dioxide and water vapor, and trace amounts of oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, and non methane organic compounds.11
living wage //
a theoretical minimum income level that allows individuals or families to afford adequate shelter, food, and other necessities.
see also; Poverty Wages - Clean Clothes Campaign
localism //
a range of political philosophies which prioritize the local. Localism can also refer to a systematic approach to organizing so that local autonomy is retained rather than following the usual pattern of power becoming centralized over time.12
mending //
the process of repairing a damaged garment or material item
microplastics //
are tiny plastic particles that result from commercial product development and the breakdown of larger plastics. Microplastics are a pollutant, and are harmful to the environment and animal health.
migration //
movement of people to a new area or country in order to find work or better living conditions.
modern slavery //
sometimes called contemporary slavery, modern slavery refers to a situation where a person is exploited and completely controlled by another person or organization, without the ability to leave.
mordant //
is a substance used to set dye on fabric. Mordants include tannic acid, oxalic acid, alum, chrome alum, sodium chloride, and certain salts of aluminium, chromium, copper, iron, iodine, potassium, sodium, tungsten, and tin. Alum is a popular mordant in natural dyeing and is used at the ration of 10% the dry weight of the fabric to be dyed.
mono materials //
materials that are made from a single fiber, as oposed to blended materials which contain mutliple fibers. Mono materials are easier to recycle and can be better reintroduced into the material stream.
natural fibers //
are fibers that are produced by geological processes, or from the bodies of plants or animals. Examples include cotton, silk, wool, leather, and hemp.
off-cuts //
small pieces of fabric that are leftover in the cutting process of pattern pieces. On average, 15% of the fabric is wasted in this part of the production. Methods like zero-waste patternmaking seek to solve this issue.
overconsumtion //
a mode of excessive consumption, that outpaces both the real needs of people and the capacity of the global ecosystems to regenerate.
paradigm shift //
a fundamental change in approach or underlying assumptions
polyester //
a synthetic fiber derived from fossil fuels
post/pre-consumer waste //
pre-consumer waste is generated in the production process before the product reaches the store and post-consumer waste is gathered from consumer in waste recepticals or on the roadside.
poverty //
often defined in absolute and relative terms. Absolute poverty means the inability to provide for basic needs such as food, shelter, and clothing. Relative poverty refers to a person’s poor economic status in relation to the overall standards of the society they live in.
Rana Plaza //
Rana Plaza was an eight-story commercial block located just outside Dhaka, Bangladesh, containing five clothing factories amongst other shops. On 24th April, 2013 the building collapsed due to a structural failure, killing 1,134 people and leaving many more with life-long debilitating injuries. The majority of the casualties were low-paid garment workers who made clothes for global high street brands.13
rayon //
aka viscose
is a semi-synthetic fiber, made from natural sources of regenerated cellulose, such as wood and related agricultural products. Rayon was developed in the late 1800s and was the first artifical textile fiber. As the motive was to imitate silk, it was first known as ‘artificial silk’. The production process - still to this day - involves toxic chemicals and a large percentage of rayon workers suffer severe brain and heart damage.
see also; The health burden of viscose rayon
reciprocity //
responding to kind action with kind actions. Mutuality, symbiosis.see also; Indigenizing philanthropy to restore reciprocity and relational gifting
recycling //
to convert (waste) into reusable material or to return (material) to a previous stage in a cyclic process. When garments are commercially recycled they are often shredded and used as insulation. It is possible to compost natural fibers if all the metal and plastic components are removed.
regeneration //
renewal, revival, restoration.
a principle that calls for products or services to contribute to systems that renew or replenish themselves.
repurpose //
adapt something to be used in a different way/for a different purpose.
reshoring //
reversing the practice of offshore manufacture by re-
introducing and supporting local manufacturing facilities and skills.
resilience //
the capacity of individuals, societies, cultures, economies, and ecosystems to reorganize and recover from change and disruption.
resourcefullness // see jugaad
repair // see mending
respect //
an attitude that shows careful consideration to self, others, and the environment, especially with regards to the cause and effect of one’s own actions.
rewilding //
seeks to reinstate natural processes and, where appropriate, missing species – allowing them to shape the landscape and the habitats within.
see also; Defining Rewilding
sandblasting //
also known as abrasive blasting, is the process of literally blasting sand at a material or often a finished garment to make it look distressed. This sand contains silica and has led to countless cases of silicosis in factory workers who are not working with adequate protection.
see also; Fashion Victims; a report on sandblasting
scarcity //
as an economic concept "refers to the basic fact of life that there exists only a finite amount of human and nonhuman resources which the best technical knowledge is capable of using to produce only limited maximum amounts of each economic good."9
silk //
a natural protein fiber that is created from a long filament that is extracted by the silk worm, typically ones living on mulberry trees. Silk is the strongest natural fiber and originates from ancient China as far back as 6500 BC.14
social cost //
costs felt by a social group that were incurred as a result of production or other busines activities. This includes the impact of such activities on reducing the well-being of individuals and communities.
social justice //
is justice in terms of the distribution of wealth, opportunities, and privileges within a society.
supply chain //
all the processes, organizations and individuals involved in turning raw materials into finished products and delivering them to customers.
sustainability //
the ability to maintain or support a process continuously over time. The term has been used so frequently and broadly over the past years that is has lost a lot of meaning.
see also; The Myth of Sustainable Fashion
synthetic fibers //
are fibers made by humans through chemical synthesis (typically fueled by petroleum), as opposed to natural fibers that are directly derived from living organisms, such as plants (like cotton) or fur from animals.
systems change //
a systems approach shifts the focus from individual parts to how the parts are organised, recognising that interactions of the parts are not static and constant but dynamic and fluid. Systemic change is where relationships between different aspects of the system have changed towards new outcomes and goals.
systems thinking //
an approach to problem-solving that views ‘problems’ as part of a wider, dynamic system. It is the process of understanding how things influence one another as part of a whole.
(Peter Senge)
traceability //
the possibility to trace the journey and origins of products from raw material to finished product across the entire value chain. Traceability is closely interconnected with the requirement for transparency, to improve trust in the fashion industry and its social and environmental practices.
trade union //
an organized association of workers in a trade, group of trades, or profession, formed to protect and further their rights and interests; a labor union.Typical activities of trade unions include providing assistance and services to their members, collectively bargaining for better pay and conditions for all workers, working to improve the quality of public services, political campaigning and industrial action.
traditional knowledge //
knowledge systems embedded in the cultural traditions of regional, indigenous, or local communities
see also; Protecting, Promoting, and Revitalizing Traditional Knowledge
transparency //
a requirement for companies to take full responsibility for
their entire supply chains and act on their accountability for the social and environmental practices at all stages of manufacturing of their products.
upcycling //
to remake (discarded objects or material) in such a way as to create a product of higher quality or value than the original.
urbanization //
the population shift from rural to urban areas, the corresponding decrease in the proportion of people living in rural areas, and the ways in which societies adapt to this change.
value chain //
refers to the full lifecycle of a product or process, including material sourcing, production, consumption and disposal/recycling processes.16
virgin materials //
as unused raw material that has never been subjected to any processing other than for its production. Virgin materials are sourced directly from nature in their raw form.
viscose // see rayon
waste //
discarded material or objects, deemed worthless, defective, or no longer of no use. Each year, the average American throws away 4.9 pounds per day or 1788.5 pounds per year.17 Of this, 70 pounds are clothing and other textiles.
“who made my clothes” //
a movement started by the founders of Fashion Revolution after the Rana Plaza disaster that seeks to shed light on the deadly lack of transparency in global supply chains. The campaign asks consumers the simple question of “who made your clothes?” and highlights the disconnect between the clothes we wear and the places and people that made them.
see also; Who Made My Clothes?
wool //
a fibre obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids. Wool is up of a matrix of keratin fibers and covered with minute scales and is usually curly or wavy.
zero waste design //
aims to eliminate waste at the design stage. This can be in the form of zero waste patternmkaing or knit garments that are made in one piece.
see also; Zero Waste Design
zero-hour contract //
A zero-hour contract is an arrangement between a worker and an employer where the employer has no obligation to guarantee a minimum of working hours and the worker is not obliged to accept the working hours offered. While zero-hour contracts may be suitable in some cases, such as to cover seasonal peaks and to enable students to work over vacation periods, they are generally unsuitable to run a core business, especially in cases where the patterns of work can be reasonably predicted, as for example shop opening hours. The incidences of low-paid zero-hour contracts have been reported across the fashion supply chain, especially in retail. In most cases, rather than offering workers the advantage of flexibility, zero-hour contracts can become a form of modern slavery, where employees work for low pay, with insecure and often last-minute working patterns, which makes them vulnerable to exploitation.1
2. Ayni via Wikipedia
3. Victor Papanek, Design for the Real World: Human Ecology and Social Change (1970)
4. Degrowth: the case for a new economic paradigm via OpenDemocracy
3. Victor Papanek, Design for the Real World: Human Ecology and Social Change (1970)
4. Degrowth: the case for a new economic paradigm via OpenDemocracy
6. What is Fast Fashion? via thegoodtrade
7. What is a Fibreshed? via Southwest England Fibershed
8. Hemp via Wikipedia9. The controversial way fashion brands gauge sustainability is being suspended by Amy Shendruk
10. Good Work Insitute
11. The Hidden Damage of Landfills via the University of Colorado Boulder
12. Localism via Wikipedia
13. The Rana Plaza Accident and its aftermath via the International Labour Organisation
14. Scarcity via Wikipedia
15. Silk Fabric via Sewport
16. What is a Value Chain? via University of Cambridge
17. National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling
